One of our current home projects is a decluttering exercise. And one of the major targets for cleanup is our collection of photographs. Like many families, we have a box—make that several boxes—full of snapshots. The work of identifying and digitizing keepers is challenging. Still, there is always the element of surprise, as we rediscover treasures from the past.
Archiving “vintage” photographs gave me an idea for a new series—let’s call it Favourite Hikes. Deborah and I have enjoyed the mountain parks for 40 years. We are not the most avid hikers, but we have many fond memories of time spent in the mountains. This series will be a chance to revisit some of our personal highlights.
The Alpine Circuit
Near the top of our list of favourite Rocky Mountain hikes is the Lake O’Hara Alpine Circuit. And we’re not alone. This hike is widely regarded as one of the classic alpine circuits in the Canadian Rockies. By extension, it surely ranks among the best mountain hikes in the world.
Starting at the historic Lake O’Hara Lodge, the Alpine Circuit is a picturesque 11-kilometre loop, which touches several of the highlights of this exclusive region of Yoho National Park. Deb and I have done the hike twice, roughly 25 years apart (last in August 2014). I think we agree that it was a bit more challenging the second time!
Wiwaxy Gap and Huber Ledges
Done in the usual clockwise direction, the Alpine Circuit hike makes the most of the elevation gained from a strenuous 500-metre climb from the lake up to Wiwaxy Gap. Because this climb consumes the first hour of the hike, it makes the rest of the outing that much more enjoyable. Make no mistake though, there are plenty of elevation gains and losses to come.
The climbing begins soon after leaving the shoreline. Hearts will be pounding by the time the col at the base of Wiwaxy Peak is reached. The word “Wiwaxy” means “windy” in the Stoney Nakoda language, and it is an accurate description. The winds can be strong in the gap. If you aren’t breathless when you arrive, the views of Victoria and Huber Glaciers to the north should do the trick!
Although it means a slow loss of elevation, the next segment is a 2-kilometre traverse of the Huber Ledges to Lake Oesa. Finding the trail is easy, with blue and yellow patches marking the way. As we found on a late-season hike on the ledges in 2013, wet or snowy conditions can make the footing tricky.
There are glimpses of the lake as you progress along the ledges, and the feeling of anticipation is palpable.
Lake Oesa and Yukness Ledges
If there is a better spot for a picnic lunch anywhere in the Rockies than Lake Oesa, I’d like to know where that is. Oesa is another Stoney Nakoda word—it means “corner”. There’s some debate about whether the lake’s name is pronounced “oh-EE-sa” or “oh-ESS-a”. However you pronounce it, Oesa is a place you feel you could stay for hours. But, remembering that there is more to see, you finish your lunch, cinch up your boots, and get back on the trail.
Now it’s some easy scrambling on the scree slopes of Yukness Mountain. There are some short exposed sections as you work your way around the Yukness Ledges toward the next major stop at Opabin Lake. The route becomes less scrambly as you approach the lake. There are amazing views of Lake O’Hara along this section of the route, and Opabin is another perfect spot to take a breather.
Opabin Plateau and All Souls Prospect
Opabin Plateau is another area worth exploring—it’s a hanging valley, with plenty of small pools and of course, great views. There’s a short climb up to Opabin Prospect if you are feeling strong. The stone steps crossing the plateau were constructed decades ago by Lawrence Grassi, a legendary trail builder who left his mark all over the Lake O’Hara region.
If the Alpine Circuit is your goal, there’s more work to do—a climb from Opabin to All Souls Prospect. On the scree trail above Opabin Plateau, the route to All Souls may be the toughest part of the hike. Again, the blue and yellow markers are a big help. The viewpoint itself is a scraggly spot on the flank of Mount Schaffer. The spectacular views over Schaffer Lake and the Odaray Plateau make the effort of getting there worthwhile.
From All Souls Prospect, just when your quads least want to know about it, there’s some downclimbing needed, as you pick your way through boulder fields and a larch forest. There’s a gentle stroll past the Elizabeth Parker Hut and the Le Relais campsite before reaching the finish at Lake O’Hara.
Summing Up
It’s worth mentioning that any of the trails that connect to form the Alpine Circuit can be done on their own. There are also many offshoots and logical connections between trails. In fact, the Lake O’Hara region has so many great hikes that I’m already thinking of another piece.
Much has been written about Lake O’Hara. It’s one of those places that’s hard to describe unless you’ve been there. Pictures don’t do it justice. And in this area that’s defined by superlatives, there’s one hike that seems to capture the magic of Lake O’Hara best—the Alpine Circuit. Deb and I feel fortunate to have completed the Circuit, twice.
Until next time, happy trails. Be well, and BE FAST!
My Second Running Life 