Favourite Hikes: Cory Pass/Edith Pass

I’m back with another entry in my series of Favourite Hikes. This time, I’ll describe an incredible hike in Banff National Park that is somewhat of a hidden gem. The Cory Pass/Edith Pass circuit is both challenging and scenic. It offers a full experience, with varied terrain and some unusual geological formations. And maybe best of all, it manages to be both close to the Banff townsite AND not overrun by visitors.

I did this hike in July 2021. It was a long but extremely satisfying day in the mountains with my friends Peter and Tim.

Cory Pass/Edith Pass Overview

We have many hiking guides around our house, and the consensus among them is that the Cory Pass/Edith Pass circuit is well worth the considerable effort it requires. Most guides suggest doing the route as a circuit, to introduce some variety on the return leg. Out-and-back options are obviously available depending on weather, skill level, or one’s own preferences.

The other question to ask, if you’re considering this hike, is the direction to do the circuit. We followed the more popular clockwise direction, and this makes sense because it puts the steep ascent up front. It’s usually easier to climb than to descend steeply.

Here’s the Strava record of our hike:

A few things will be clear from this summary. The hike is essentially a circumnavigation of Mount Edith. It’s long and with considerable elevation gain. We did some extra hiking and climbing during the day, so our figures are inflated compared to the basic route. Most descriptions put the circuit at about 14 km and 1,000 m of gain. Timewise, our outing was in the range of most estimates, which are 5-7 hours for the circuit.

Be aware that the north side of Mt. Edith involves some slogging on scree slopes, and the route can be a little hard to find on the return leg where the trail heads back into the forest. It wasn’t an issue when we did the hike, but snow can make the trail impassible until mid-summer. If you plan accordingly, the hike is well worth the effort.

Outbound to Cory Pass

Shortly after departing from the Fireside Day Use area—a quick drive from Banff and a worthy picnic spot—the trail splits to form the Cory Pass/Edith Pass circuit. And the climbing starts immediately after turning left for Cory Pass. There are good views of the Banff townsite and Mount Rundle, but mostly this section is about gaining elevation, and quite relentlessly, for a few kilometres along the south ridge of Mount Edith.

The grade moderates onto a long, dry traverse of the base of the mountain. Mount Cory is on the left. Even though the trail is narrow and exposed in spots, it never creates any significant challenges. For some reason, possibly my aching quads, I have no pictures from this part of the hike. Fortunately, here are a couple of shots taken along the traverse, courtesy of the Hike the Canadian Rockies website.

Finally, after about 6 km of effort, the col at Cory Pass is reached. The elevation is 2,350 metres. Here, the views are spectacular.

Gargoyle Valley

Descending steeply from Cory Pass is a scree trail between Mount Edith and Mount Louis—a jagged, dogtooth peak which looms large on the horizon. This section of the hike was the highlight for me, because of the variations in scenery. Otherworldly geological formations, the “gargoyles”, give the valley its name.

We enjoyed a leisurely lunch and did some exploring in and around the large rock pinnacles. Marmots enjoy sunning themselves on the high flat tops of the formations.

Once past the gargoyles, there is a long slog across a scree slope on the north side of Mount Edith. Finding the trail is never in doubt but the footing can be tricky in spots—poles are a must here. Gaiters too! A large boulder field marks the end of the scree trail. Again, the trail is easily found through the boulders.

Inbound via Edith Pass

Once you’ve picked your way through the boulder field, and enjoyed one last view of Mount Louis—now behind you to the north—it’s important to pay attention to find the return trail. We made one brief false start. The path becomes obvious if you look and hike upwards. There is a sign where bare slopes give way to the treeline.

The last 3 or 4 km of the trail are on a gradual decline through a dense forest. The mosquitoes and the noise of the highway were what I remember most in this section. To be honest, the exit trail is rather anticlimactic after the impressive sights we experienced earlier in the day. As is often the case in the Rockies, the ecosystem on the east side of the mountain is very different from the west side.

Eventually, the Cory/Edith fork is reached, leaving only an easy stroll back to the parking lot.

Summing Up

It was smiles all around (sort of) when we got back to Fireside for a well-deserved snack and beverage. Tim, Peter and I agree that the Cory Pass/Edith Pass hike checks many boxes, having everything we look for in a memorable hike. There’s plenty of challenge, but even more rewards. Highly recommended!

Until next time, happy trails. BE FAST!

Favourite Hikes: Lake O’Hara Alpine Circuit

One of our current home projects is a decluttering exercise. And one of the major targets for cleanup is our collection of photographs. Like many families, we have a box—make that several boxes—full of snapshots. The work of identifying and digitizing keepers is challenging. Still, there is always the element of surprise, as we rediscover treasures from the past.

Archiving “vintage” photographs gave me an idea for a new series—let’s call it Favourite Hikes. Deborah and I have enjoyed the mountain parks for 40 years. We are not the most avid hikers, but we have many fond memories of time spent in the mountains. This series will be a chance to revisit some of our personal highlights.

The Alpine Circuit

Near the top of our list of favourite Rocky Mountain hikes is the Lake O’Hara Alpine Circuit. And we’re not alone. This hike is widely regarded as one of the classic alpine circuits in the Canadian Rockies. By extension, it surely ranks among the best mountain hikes in the world.

Starting at the historic Lake O’Hara Lodge, the Alpine Circuit is a picturesque 11-kilometre loop, which touches several of the highlights of this exclusive region of Yoho National Park. Deb and I have done the hike twice, roughly 25 years apart (last in August 2014). I think we agree that it was a bit more challenging the second time!

Wiwaxy Gap and Huber Ledges

Done in the usual clockwise direction, the Alpine Circuit hike makes the most of the elevation gained from a strenuous 500-metre climb from the lake up to Wiwaxy Gap. Because this climb consumes the first hour of the hike, it makes the rest of the outing that much more enjoyable. Make no mistake though, there are plenty of elevation gains and losses to come.

The climbing begins soon after leaving the shoreline. Hearts will be pounding by the time the col at the base of Wiwaxy Peak is reached. The word “Wiwaxy” means “windy” in the Stoney Nakoda language, and it is an accurate description. The winds can be strong in the gap. If you aren’t breathless when you arrive, the views of Victoria and Huber Glaciers to the north should do the trick!

Although it means a slow loss of elevation, the next segment is a 2-kilometre traverse of the Huber Ledges to Lake Oesa. Finding the trail is easy, with blue and yellow patches marking the way. As we found on a late-season hike on the ledges in 2013, wet or snowy conditions can make the footing tricky.

There are glimpses of the lake as you progress along the ledges, and the feeling of anticipation is palpable.

Lake Oesa and Yukness Ledges

If there is a better spot for a picnic lunch anywhere in the Rockies than Lake Oesa, I’d like to know where that is. Oesa is another Stoney Nakoda word—it means “corner”. There’s some debate about whether the lake’s name is pronounced “oh-EE-sa” or “oh-ESS-a”. However you pronounce it, Oesa is a place you feel you could stay for hours. But, remembering that there is more to see, you finish your lunch, cinch up your boots, and get back on the trail.

Now it’s some easy scrambling on the scree slopes of Yukness Mountain. There are some short exposed sections as you work your way around the Yukness Ledges toward the next major stop at Opabin Lake. The route becomes less scrambly as you approach the lake. There are amazing views of Lake O’Hara along this section of the route, and Opabin is another perfect spot to take a breather.

Opabin Plateau and All Souls Prospect

Opabin Plateau is another area worth exploring—it’s a hanging valley, with plenty of small pools and of course, great views. There’s a short climb up to Opabin Prospect if you are feeling strong. The stone steps crossing the plateau were constructed decades ago by Lawrence Grassi, a legendary trail builder who left his mark all over the Lake O’Hara region.

If the Alpine Circuit is your goal, there’s more work to do—a climb from Opabin to All Souls Prospect. On the scree trail above Opabin Plateau, the route to All Souls may be the toughest part of the hike. Again, the blue and yellow markers are a big help. The viewpoint itself is a scraggly spot on the flank of Mount Schaffer. The spectacular views over Schaffer Lake and the Odaray Plateau make the effort of getting there worthwhile.

From All Souls Prospect, just when your quads least want to know about it, there’s some downclimbing needed, as you pick your way through boulder fields and a larch forest. There’s a gentle stroll past the Elizabeth Parker Hut and the Le Relais campsite before reaching the finish at Lake O’Hara.

Summing Up

It’s worth mentioning that any of the trails that connect to form the Alpine Circuit can be done on their own. There are also many offshoots and logical connections between trails. In fact, the Lake O’Hara region has so many great hikes that I’m already thinking of another piece.

Much has been written about Lake O’Hara. It’s one of those places that’s hard to describe unless you’ve been there. Pictures don’t do it justice. And in this area that’s defined by superlatives, there’s one hike that seems to capture the magic of Lake O’Hara best—the Alpine Circuit. Deb and I feel fortunate to have completed the Circuit, twice.

Until next time, happy trails. Be well, and BE FAST!

More BUMP and Run

We had a brief return to winter weather last week, which was a good excuse for me to dig through more Beltline mural pictures. This piece is not a lesson in how to hit a “bump and run”… a crafty shot that will be familiar to golfers… it’s a mash-up of pictures from several recent photo runs.

Like the first post in this series, I scouted out Beltline Urban Mural Project (BUMP) murals and did background research on the artists. Routes for all my urban photo runs are “organic”… dictated by red lights, convenient turns, and whatever street scenes catch my eye.

This post highlights murals in the large area from 17th Avenue SW to the downtown core. There are so many pieces in this area, with more coming in 2025, that there will certainly be more posts in the future.

Some of my favourites:

  • Seeroro (Carolyn Wong, @seeroro_ ) is a Chinese-Canadian artist from Vancouver. “Euphoria” is a colourful, three-sided mural inspired by the Tortoise and Hare folktale and the year of the water rabbit in the lunar calendar. Wong’s mural is tucked in between the buildings at 625 11 Avenue SW. Well worth the search!
  • birdO (Jerry Rugg, @jerryrugg ) is a multidisciplinary artist based in Toronto. He is well-known for large-scale murals on walls and buildings. His spectacular untitled piece at 441 5th Avenue SW is of a peregrine falcon, with the city skyline reflected in the bird’s eye. I’ve photographed this piece often.
  • Fluke ( @fluke.art ) is based in Montreal. His work as a street artist has roots in graffiti going back to the mid-1990s. Working with photographers, Fluke merges street art and contemporary imagery to create his pieces. His untitled mural on the west face of 1039 17th Avenue SW was glowing in the setting sun when I shot my photo.
  • Hanna Reimer ( @hannaclare ) is a Treaty 1 artist from Winnipeg, whose works emphasize texture and pattern. Hanna’s interest in fabric was the inspiration for her mural at 739 11 Avenue SW. She chose colours and patterns to make the wall appear to be flowing like sheer fabric. I found the juxtaposition with the angular Cybertruck jarring, but too good to pass up.

And a few more:

While I was thinking about murals, I paged through my files and came up with more pictures and stories. These fall a bit outside the topic of this post as they weren’t taken “on the run”, but that’s okay.

In 2019, I was walking around the Beltline with a newly repaired Voigtlander Vitessa T. I had picked the camera up on eBay with low expectations. It was 70 years old and non-operational. The camera is unique: it’s a rangefinder, and it has a plunger instead of the usual film advance lever. (Perhaps not surprisingly, this is a weak element of the design. It’s probably why this feature didn’t find its way into other cameras!) Fortunately, I found a fellow in Calgary who patiently (and cheaply) sourced the required spring to get it going again.

My first shots with the Voigtlander were of the multicultural artist Fathima Mohiuddin ( @fatspatrol ), as she was finishing her mural at 708 11 Avenue SW. We chatted for a few minutes and I took photos of her in front of the mural. It’s in her signature graphic style, and it’s awesome!

I had no idea if I’d get anything out of the Vitessa, but I was very happy with the result. I never saw Fathima again, so I hope she will see this picture.

The following pictures were taken within a minute of each other. I had been walking around 17th Avenue SW with my Ricoh GR III, on the lookout for interesting people or street scenes. On that day, I remember being disappointed that I had not seen much that caught my eye.

I walked down 13th Street, past the alley behind Calgary Jewellery, and snapped a quick shot of a fellow walking by Alex Kwong‘s huge (and hugely impressive) 2021 piece. Unfortunately, I don’t have many details about the mural. It doesn’t appear to be part of the BUMP series. Alex has done other pieces around the city, including a couple for BUMP. Check out his website and Instagram ( @_alexkwong ).

After I snapped this picture I turned onto 17th Avenue, and I noticed a stylish guy approaching me. An obvious picture was coming together… I just had to wait for him to pass in front of the colourful mural at 1137 17th Avenue SW. The bright elements in the mural complement his confident personal style.

In my research, I learned that the mural is by Calgary artist Toner ( @bravotoner ). The piece is titled Companion and it was painted in 2020. I realized I wasn’t being totally fair to Toner by having the best part of his mural obscured, so I went back and photographed it on its own to reveal a beautiful parrot. Here’s the whole image. Nice work Toner!

“Companion” by Toner, 1137 17th Avenue SW, painted in 2020

An interesting fact is that Toner and Kwong have collaborated on pieces around the city. I’ll be back soon with more in my next post.

Until then, be well and BE FAST!

February News Roundup – UPDATED

This is a short post, with the latest news. I’ve been busy compiling and editing photographs for my new BUMP Photo Run series. If you aren’t familiar with BUMP, it’s the Beltline Urban Mural Project, a vibrant project that has been brightening up our city since 2017. Check out my first piece here. You can read about the background of the project while enjoying photographs of some amazing art. Look for more posts very soon!

Canmore Public Library Event, Feb 12

UPDATED!

It was a wonderful evening in Canmore. The venue in Elevation Place was beautiful, we had a great turnout for our talk and an engaged audience. What more could we ask for?

Thanks to my friend, Don Crowe, for taking on MC duties, to Carey Lees of the Canmore Public Library for her flawless organization, and to all who attended. Thanks too, to Kylie and Tim at Strides Canmore, for their generous support of this event!

Here’s a synopsis of the talk:

  • A brief personal introduction
  • A collage of my running adventures (see below)
  • Discussion of my stroke journey, including the useful phrase to remember stroke symptoms (readers of this blog will already be familiar with BE FAST)

Of course, I shared my three main messages, listed below:

  • The importance of an active lifestyle
  • Awareness of ALL the symptoms of stroke
  • Raising funds to support the great work being done every day on stroke prevention and care at the Foothills Stroke Unit
This is what 50 years of running memories look like on one page!

You can read all the details in Stroke of Luck: My Life in Amateur Athletics. And there’s some news on that front: Cafe Books in Canmore will be carrying the book. So, if you live in Canmore, please drop into this unique bookstore and grab your copy!


For anyone in the Canmore area this Wednesday (February 12), I’ll be speaking at an Author Event at the Canmore Public Library at 6:30 p.m. Join me if you can, for an informal (and informative) presentation of my story, as told in Stroke of Luck: My Life in Amateur Athletics. There will be a short presentation, a Q&A session, and some draw prizes. I’ll have copies of the book available for purchase, at a special event price. Proceeds from book sales support the great work being done every day in the Foothills Stroke Unit.

I’d like to thank the staff at the library for hosting us in your wonderful facility. Also, to my friends at Strides Canmore, thank you for spreading the word about this event, and for your ongoing support of my book project. I feel blessed to be part of the tremendous local running community… it’s second to none!

Finally, thanks to Dianne Deans, whom I had the pleasure of meeting at the CanStroke Congress in November. Dianne is an enthusiastic patient support volunteer for stroke victims at the Foothills Medical Centre. She kindly connected me with the Canmore library staff, which led to this event coming together. Thank you, Dianne!

Heart Month Sale Still On!

What better way to mark Heart Month than a healthy discount for online sales of Stroke of Luck?

Order your copy on Amazon, and save 20%. The sale will run through the end of February.

Until next time, be well and BE FAST!

BUMP Photo Runs – Part 1

I was jogging around Calgary’s Beltline, feeling a bit short of ideas for my next urban run/photo adventure. As I rounded the corner from 7th Street onto 15th Avenue, I glanced up at the side of the building. What I saw stopped me in my tracks, and instantly gave me the inspiration I needed.

What’s BUMP?

There’s a program called the Beltline Urban Mural Project… BUMP… that has been making Calgary’s inner city streets more interesting and colourful for years. I had to find out more.

From the BUMP website, I learned that the project started in 2017, and has grown significantly since then. Seeing all the artwork in one run would be challenging, if not impossible. There are dozens of sites, spread throughout the core. I needed a plan. I often start my runs near Lougheed House, so I decided to use that location as my base. I could get a good overview of the murals (and hopefully some worthy photos) by concentrating on different neighbourhoods over several runs. This is the first of what is likely to be an ongoing series.

Run 1 – BUMP in the Beltline

Run 1 focused on the Beltline itself… bounded roughly by 15th and 10th Avenue, and 1st and 10th Street. Here’s my Strava map:

Turning to the art, let me start with the mural that prompted this idea. It’s a large, striking piece in green, called “The Last Maple Leaf”. It was painted in 2023 by the Colombian artist Wosnan. This is from the mural description:

“Rising from nature an ancient guardian of the forest who merges the realms of magic, other worlds and dimensions, spirit and space stands tall, looking over our city…”

Wosnan, “The Last Maple Leaf”, 1411 7th Street SW

This was an apt description of the mysterious tree-like being that loomed over me, guarding his/her corner of the neighbourhood while pondering (no surprise) the last maple leaf. Stirring stuff! I studied the mural carefully, with my stopwatch running. The magnitude of the challenge I had taken on dawned on me. Maybe I should make this a slow photo walk…

No! I resumed my run, with my goal of at least five kilometres in mind. I tried to ignore the glimpses of colour that I started to notice down every alley.

Bottom line? I finished with lots of pictures and a feeling that I had made a small dent in the many Beltline murals. For full disclosure, while I saw all these murals on BUMP Run 1, some of the photos are from previous runs because I liked the shot more. Light is everything, you know!

Here’s a short summary of the pieces in the photographs. I recommend following the links to the map on the BUMP website to find out more.

Mural Making – A Layman’s Perspective

Imagine painting a mural on a wall 60 feet wide by 30 feet high. How does one even begin? Laying out a piece at that size and scale must be extremely difficult. And the execution would bring very different challenges. I marvel at the way the artists manage the intricate details, while still capturing their vision for the whole piece.

I had a front-row seat for the creation of sôhkâtisiwin (that’s Canadian artist Kevin Ledo’s striking mural at 340 10 Avenue SW). The title means “strength/power” in the Cree language. The image is taken from a picture of B-Girl and traditional hoop dancer, Angela Gladue. I watched the beautiful portrait of this young Indigenous woman come to life in 2018, from the comfort of my office across the street. Kevin and his helpers toiled away in the hot summer sun on a stage lift, going up and down endlessly over several weeks to complete the image, which now livens up the west side of a parking garage. I made sure to give them a thumbs-up every time I walked by.

Here’s a rough timelapse of the process (I had many more pictures on my phone, but I recently deleted most of them). You get the idea though.

Impressions

This is an amazing initiative. To state the obvious, BUMP is a diverse selection of art. I’m impressed by the sheer number and quality of the murals. It’s great to have artists from around the world come to Calgary and share their talent. I hope the project continues and expands its reach across the city.

This is the kind of project that invites us to slow down and take a closer look at the art. Sure, we can (and most often, do) pass by these murals in our daily routine. Maybe we glance at them, maybe we don’t. But this first photo run has already prompted many questions… Who is this artist? What is their message? Do I think they succeeded? What does this piece make me feel?

The BUMP website helpfully lets the user select pieces they would like to see on a walking tour, and this is probably the correct way to see them. I will persevere with my photo run idea, knowing I will still see and learn a lot along the way.

My early impressions are very positive. I already have some favourites. I will defer any thoughts about that question until I’ve done more exploration. There will eventually be a personal top 10 list, but even that will be subject to change as I see more of the contenders. Look for more posts on my BUMP photo runs soon.

Thanks for reading. Please drop me a comment. Let me know if you have a favourite BUMP mural that you think I should see.

Until next time, be well and BE FAST!

Prairie Mountain Sunrise Hike 2024

In mid-December, my friend Tim announced the details of what can now be called the Annual Prairie Mountain Winter Sunrise Hike. This would be the third (or was it the fourth?) consecutive trek. Whatever the number, it’s still a great idea.

After consulting his celestial tables, Tim determined that the morning of December 30 would align us with the latest sunrise of the season, plus or minus a few seconds.

If you haven’t seen my posts on last year’s hike, I recommend you check out Part 1: The Hike and Part 2: The Science. (Tim even organized a Prairie Mountain summer solstice hike in June 2024 for the real early risers. You can read about that one here.)

For those who aren’t familiar with Prairie Mountain in Kananaskis, it is the most accessible mountain for Calgary hikers. Conditions on the trail and at the summit can be quite variable, so it’s important to check the weather and prepare for anything. Of course, allowance for the drive and the ascent were critical to getting us to the summit in good time for the sun’s (hopeful) appearance at 8:39 a.m.

This year, our party consisted of eight hikers. We had seven regulars and one PM rookie… welcome Ken! We woke up to snowy conditions in Calgary, a big change from the prevailing weather pattern of the previous month. What awaited us at the summit?

Dan and I joined the convoy that left Calgary at 6:10 a.m. We reached the trailhead at around 7 and were off and climbing just a few minutes later.

The conditions (or maybe it was my conditioning) made for a tougher hike than what I remember in 2023. After last year’s outing, I knew what to expect on the revamped (and in my opinion, significantly improved) Prairie Mountain trail. I put my head down and tried to dole out my energy efficiently. I knew that counting three one-kilometre beeps from my Garmin would just about put us on the summit ridge. I welcomed a couple of short breaks, first to shut off our headlamps and then to regroup at the lower viewpoint.

On this morning, there was only the dimmest of dawn light to guide us. Clouds socked in the summit as we arrived. There would be no repeat of last year’s glorious sunrise show. But no matter. Fortunately, there was little wind. We all grabbed a quick snack, posed for a couple of group photos, and got organized for the descent. I was thankful for my Kahtoola Microspikes, which were a necessity as we got to some slippery sections lower on the mountain.

Here’s my activity summary from Strava. One thing is clear: Prairie Mountain is always a good workout!

I was impressed by the calibre of our hiking group. What a hardy and enthusiastic bunch… including our youngest hiker, who didn’t even need a hat! Here are a few photos from this year’s hike, taken with my constant companion, the invincible Ricoh GR III.

And the sun? It made only the briefest of appearances, as if to tease us, just before we arrived back at the trailhead.

Too little, too late (December 30, 2024)

So, even though the sun didn’t show up to the party, it was still an enjoyable outing and a good way to close out 2024. I look forward to more adventures in the new year.

On that note, Happy New Year to all. Be well, and BE FAST!